TECHNIQUES

CURING FISH with SEAWEED

How to cure fish with Kombu

What is Kombu-Jime?

Kombu-jime is a Japanese technique used for curing or pickling meat and fish, vegetables, and other ingredients. Kombu-jime involves simply laying the meat (or veggies) between two kombu leaves and refrigerating between twelve and twenty-four hours [4]. In that time, the kombu will do two things. First, it will remove moisture from the meat which will concentrate and strengthen its flavor. Second, it will impart some of the flavor from the kombu onto the meat.

Here is a video with Chef Davin Waite from The Wrench and Rodent in San Diego, CA that does experimental fusion sushi.

What is Kombu?

Kombu is a member of the brown-algae family and grows mostly off the coast of Hokkaido – the northern most island in Japan. Kombu can also be grown and harvested off the Korean Peninsula – where it is known as dashima, as well as in China, where it is called haidai. [1]

After being cut and pulled out of the sea, kombu is laid out in the sun to dry. As the water evaporates, the salt from the sea water remains embedded within the kelp as well as in a thin coat around its outer layer, which gives the kombu a naturally rich, salty, umami flavor. [1] Most kombu is simply dried, shaped, and then dispatched. However, some kombu producers will reserve cuts of kombu and place them under a more rigorous maturation process known as kuragakoi, or “cellar conservation.” This process allows the umami flavor of the kombu to deepen and removes more of the distinct, at times unpleasant seaweed odor and flavor.

Beyond its salty flavor, kombu is also a natural source of glutamic acid also known as glutamate, a type of amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. Combined with the salt from the ocean – another term for which is sodium or monosodium – kombu is a rich source of natural sodium-glutamate, also known as msg. As such, kombu is perfect for drying and flavoring all kinds of ingredients naturally. [5]

Uses for Kombu

One of the most common uses for kombu is dashi, perhaps the most iconic and traditional Japanese stock. Pure dashi requires only a cut piece of kombu, a cup of water, and about twenty minutes of time. As the kombu soaks, the dashi will begin seeping out. The taste is light, subtle, and remarkably simple. More complex forms of dashi also include katsuobushi, or dried bonito flakes, and occasionally shiitake mushrooms and niboshi, or small, dried fish. [2]

Another incredibly popular use for kombu is the process known as kombu-jime. The most traditional use for kombu-jime is in drying and curing fish, such as tuna and yellowtail, to be served as sashimi or nigiri. In recent years, however, dry-aged beef has gained attention in Japan. Because dry-aged beef can be so expensive due to the time it takes to produce, innovative Japanese chefs have begun to experiment with a sort of “fast” dry-aging process using kombu. While it won’t garner the exact same results as a long-term dry-aging, kombu-dried beef still has remarkably rich, concentrated flavors. [3]

As ingredients like kombu and techniques like kombu-jime become increasingly popular in the States, American chefs are applying these age-old curing and flavoring techniques to just about everything! Kombu-cured fish, vegetables – even butter are appearing more and more frequently in kitchens and menus across the US.
When tradition, innovation, natural ingredients, and sustainable practices all overlap, the results are always epic!

Sources

[1] Crosbie, David. “Discover the Hidden Depths of Konbu.” Eat-Japan. Vol. 2, Issue 2, 2006. Umami Information Center. https://www.umamiinfo.com/richfood/foodstuff/kelp.php

[2] Han, Emily. “Ingredient Spotlight: Dried Kombu.” Kitchn. Jun 4, 2019. https://www.thekitchn.com/ingredient-spotlight-kombu-75445

[3] Kurakon. “Kombu Cured Beef.” Kurakon USA, 2014-06-26. http://www.kurakonusa.com/blog/2014/06/kombu-cured-beef/

[4] Pearce, Cate. “Kombu-Jime.” Kyoto Gourmet Guide. October 10, 1989. https://kyotogourmet.guide/glossary/kombu-jime-%E6%98%86%E5%B8%83%E3%80%86/

[5] Thijssen, Liesbeth. “Kombu Seaweed Powder to Serve as a Natural Umami Alternative.” Food Ingredients First. Robin Wyers. April 19, 2016. https://www.foodingredientsfirst.com/news/INTERVIEW-Kombu-Seaweed-Powder-to-Serve-as-a-Natural-Umami-Alternative.html

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Kombu Cured Red Snapper
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Sam

Sam wells is a culinary photographer and filmmaker from San Diego, CA. He has a passion for locally produced food and handcrafted kitchen tools, and is dedicated to promoting sustainability in the food industry by encouraging chefs to diversify the products they use and to explore their local producers and the environment around them. He loves to promote restaurants that are a reflection of the time and place where they exist.
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