Aburi Sushi Beautifully Blends Sashimi and Seared Fish
Aburi is a common technique used in sushi preparation. Literally meaning “flame-seared” the technique involves using a torch to gently scorch the surface of the fish, transforming its flavor and texture. The technique beautifully marries the buttery flavor and silky texture of sashimi with the crispy, charred, smoky essence of grilled fish.[1]
Beyond elevating the flavor profile of the fish, the aburi technique serves a much more pragmatic function. Raw fish used in sushi can potentially contain bacteria. Flame-searing the surface of the fish can help kill those bacteria, sterilizing the fish and making it safer to eat. This technique, of course, is not mandatory to ensure safe sushi consumption, as various other steps in sushi preparation also help to sterilize the fish, such as freezing and marinating the fish. However, the aburi technique adds one extra layer of sterilization for those a bit wary of eating entirely raw fish. [2]
By and large, the aburi technique is all about enhancing and evolving the flavor profile of the fish. Of course, most sushi grade fish varieties are excellent to consume completely raw. However, by gently searing the surface or skin of some fish varieties while leaving the underside raw creates a beautiful contrast, producing something new and exhilarating for your palette.
At West Coast Koji in San Diego, California, Chef Michael Vera utilizes the aburi technique in his Black Cod dish. The dish begins by curing the fish in sugar and salt to help firm up the flesh and begin to denature, or break down, the proteins in the meat. After curing, rinsing, and drying the fish, Vera places the fish skin-side up on a bed of ice. This keeps the underside of the fish chilled, fresh, and raw while he applies heat to the top of the fish. Next, it’s time to apply some fire.
Vera stresses how absolutely vital it is when using the aburi technique to ensure that none of the gas from the torch interferes with the flavor of the fish – creating what chefs call “torch taste.” Torch taste develops when uncombusted hydrocarbons from the torch’s fuel end up on the fish. To avoid torch taste, Vera recommends adjusting the flame of the torch first before applying it to the fish. When the flame looks tight and blue, it’s time to start applying heat to the fish. The goal is not to overly cook the fish, but simply to apply a light char. Apply heat gently off and on until the fat beneath the surface of the skin begins to sizzle.
The aburi technique is all about patience and control. The goal is not to necessarily cook the fish, but simply to awaken and transform some of its inherent flavor. Once mastered, this technique can take your sushi to a whole new level.
Sources
Harowitz, S. and Issue, C., 2020. Aburi Prime At Miku Restaurant. [online] MONTECRISTO. Available at: <https://montecristomagazine.com/food-and-drink/aburi-prime-miku-restaurant> [Accessed 8 June 2020].
KAZATO, M., 2020. The Development Of Sushi Techniques | Eat-Japan. [online] Eat-japan.com. Available at: <https://www.eat-japan.com/sushi-perfect/sushi-master-course/the-development-of-sushi-techniques/> [Accessed 8 June 2020].
